Online restoration project

 

Witness the fact that collectors and enthusiasts are asking for camera and lens restoration ideas

this online restoration project can be followed day by day

 

The victim camera is the black Nikon F - built in December 1969 - of Philips´ staff photographer

Ber van der Vleut

 

 

The camera will be cleaned first and all dents and bumps will be repaired. Pictures of the ongoing process will be uploaded frequently. Goal is to keep the camera authentic and full operational.

Should it be cleaned and/or repainted or not?

Give your opinion here

Only serious advises or opinions please! Troublemakers will be banned for life!

This dent has to be removed

 

Cleaning is absolutely necessary,

 

because it looks better!

It is not difficult to disassemble the right top of a Nikon F. The knob on top of the frame counter can be lifted off after removing three setscrews at its side. Take the two rings under it off and unscrew the three screws of the advance lever. Take off the advance lever. Inside the A-R collar, around the release button, you´ll see a retaining ring which has to be removed with small pliers. In some models you have to turn the A-R collar to find a setscrews through the little hole in the side of the collar. The shutter speed selector knob has two screws on top, which has to be removed. In the left corner next to the viewfinder there is one screw to be unscrewed. You also have to remove the nameplate on front of the camera. That nameplate is hold by two screws which are not screwed into the camera body but in a little bar behind the nameplate. Two top screws of the bezel have to be removed and the bezel should be lifted a bit to loosen the right top plat of the camera. If you have disassembled all as written above you will see this (see below)

1. shutter speed selector; 2. shutter release button; 3. film advance lever. After nearly 40 years quite dirty!!

Write down what you are doing, if you are uncertain. Put all screws and ring together on a paper or towel, so that all screws come back in the same/original place. Take a (tooth) brush to clean everything, check the (glued) glass under the little window of the flash selector; the knob op top of the frame counter has (should have) just one glass (in the largest window). At the right side of the advance lever in the body you find a screw that holds the strap lug. Re-assemble everything in reverse.

 

The prism is damaged, thus has to be replaced

It is not difficult to replace a prism, but first you have to find a replacement. The prism in the eye-level finder has the same size as the prisms in the early Nikkormat cameras. On camera fairs or in internet Nikkormats are often offered for a low price, because they are wrecked, not working or for any other reason. Check the prism carefully before buying one; remove the top plate by unscrewing all button and knobs (rewind knob is hold by one setscrew and can be screwed off counterclockwise by holding the film cassette claw; the shutter speed dial has some setscrews and the advance lever a top plate that can be removed with a rubber stop or cork; with a plier set the rings can be removed. Unscrew at the side of the top plate all screws and wiggle the top plate of the camera body. The prism can be removed as described here)

The eye-level view finder can be opened by unscrewing the 4 screws which can be found under the leatherette on top of it. If you removed the top cap you will see this (see below)

The (damaged) prism is hold in its position by two clamps, each of which have two screws. (Don´t loose the two rings on the front screw holes of the top cap). After unscrewing the four screws of the clamps the prism can be taken of. At the side of the ocular (viewfinder window) all foam is dried out (softener in the foam evaporated). Take it all off and replace it by some new foam (damper foam for furniture or doors) which can be found in any tool shop. If you are going to use a prism with a little spot on its top, but from inside it looks clean, paint the top of the prism with a little drip of ´flat black´ fine grain pigmented enamel (non-gloss) paint. If you have taken of the prism you´ll (hopefully) see this (see below)

After cleaning the prism holder, replacing the foam and cleaning the inside of the viewfinder window glass you may place back the new prism; put back the prism clamps and their screws. Put back the top cap, fasten the four screws and glue back the leatherette. If everything has been fitted as described your eye-level prism is like new.

Will be continued!!

Stay tuned!